Back in ’05, I was in a bit of a dilemma as I could not head back home for Christmas due to specific permanent resident issues (with the US government), so I needed a destination to spend the final two weeks of ’05.  Having just watched The Killing Fields and read a book about Southeast Asian history, Cambodia quickly came to mind, and I booked the trip.

While my main itinerary included basic accommodations, I did make one tweak to my plan and arranged to stay at two historic, colonial hotels: the Raffles Le Royal in Phnom Penh and Grand Hotel D’Angkor in Siem Reap.  The history that filled these hotels is incredible: great adventurers, statesmen and royalty made these places their home.

The Le Royal in Phnom Penh triggered the most interest for me as it was the headquarters for foreign photojournalists during the Khmer Rouge reign from 1975 to 1979.  In the movie The Killing Fields (highly recommended before any travel to Cambodia), several of the scenes were shot in the hotel.

Staying there was a very strange feeling, as it is truly living in the lap of luxury: the nicest place I have ever, and probably will ever, stay.  Yet the hotel also holds such a strong link to colonization and, perhaps most importantly, to Cambodians, the time of the Khmer Rouge rule, where some of the worst atrocities of genocide and persecution have ever taken place.

Over the next few days, I will post some basic photos I took during this time, and how I walked away from Cambodia with an uplifted spirit.  The people of this country have persevered and live life with a passion and love that I have rarely seen.  Include this with a beautiful country full of mystery, historical buildings, and ruins, and I will return.

The countryside where many of the atrocities took place was depressing, but also a needed jolt to understand the history of the country. The people of the countryside and of Phnom Penh were incredible. Over a morning coffee, these two young kids wanted to shine my sandals… and they really took their job seriously. The waitress at the café said they are really good kids and do many odd jobs for them during the week.

FYI: When I do a photography trek, I prefer to stay at very modest hotels – as long as they have electricity (to power my computer & recharge batteries) and a bed, I am happy as I generally only spend time at the hotel to sleep & recharge.  1 and 2-Star guesthouses are generally perfect for serving this purpose.  

The impact of the Le Royal in Phnom Penh, however, I could not ignore, as it too has a role in the sad part of the history. I did not spend much time there, as I was out exploring every minute I could.